MOMMY STUDY TIME
PLEASE DO NOT DISTURB
UNLESS YOU ARE BRINGING ME CHOCOLATE
See ya' tomorrow!
Friday, March 30, 2012
MOMMY STUDY TIME
See ya' tomorrow!
Thursday, March 29, 2012
GARDEN PARTY & MOMMY STUDY DAY
Just found a great video
that I had to share with you.
The weather here in Northern Illinois
will be
GORGEOUS
this weekend.
This will be a good time
to start putting your garden
in place.
This video
from
Our Simple Farm
shares how to double dig.
I double dug my beds
BEFORE
starting the raised beds
for the Square Foot Gardens above them.
And now, if you will excuse me...
MOMMY STUDY TIME
that I had to share with you.
The weather here in Northern Illinois
will be
GORGEOUS
this weekend.
This will be a good time
to start putting your garden
in place.
This video
from
Our Simple Farm
shares how to double dig.
I double dug my beds
BEFORE
starting the raised beds
for the Square Foot Gardens above them.
And now, if you will excuse me...
MOMMY STUDY TIME
PLEASE DO NOT DISTURB
UNLESS YOU ARE BRINGING ME CHOCOLATE
See ya' Sunday!
Sock Bunny for The Bunny Project for Harrisburg
He is just so adorable and easy to make - you'll want to do at least a dozen!
We've named him Righteous. He reminds me of a skater dude, so he needs a really cool name. I know he's faceless right now. Don't worry, I'll take care of his adorable mug later today. I wanted to get the tutorial up as soon as possible because if you are joining in on the Bonus Craftivism Challenge, you need to mail your bunny (bunnies) no later than Monday, and then you'll need to mail them Priority Mail. So let's get started!
You will need one pair of size large cotton socks in at least a medium length. I used men's boot socks I found at Dollar General (2 pair/$4). I like how they looked like traditional sock monkey socks. You can use whatever socks you'd like.
You will also need a needle and thread, pins, polyester stuffing, and either a fabric marking pen (this is what I used) or a pencil, and decorations of your choice. Just remember, for The Bunny Project, if you use buttons, you must label your bun "Ages 4+".
As you put this little guy together, you'll see a lot of similarities to our glove bunny, so if you're new to sewing, this is a great "next-step" project for you.
Here is the template I used as my inspiration for my bunny. If you like to make sock monkeys or would like to learn, this is the best pattern, with the easiest instructions, I've found. Obviously, to make a bunny, we're going to do a few things differently, but you can get an idea of how this is all going to go together.
Time is short so let's get started!
Trim the cuff off one sock and save it for later. Stuff this sock up into the toe, and fill the foot portion roughly 1/3 full. Run a gathering stitch under the stuffing, starting in the center back and leaving a long starting tail. When you get all the way around, pull the starting tail and working thread to gather your sock around the stuffing. Do the criss-cross we did with the glove bunny, and tie TIGHTLY to secure. Snip threads close to your knot. This will make the little bunny head.
Now stuff the rest of the foot portion, down to the heel. Remember your bunny should be able to sit relatively well, but it should also be soft enough to hug. It's a fine line, and my best suggestion is just to play with it until you are satisfied. Add more stuffing if you need to, take some out. You be the judge.
Stitch across the bottom of the body (where the arrow is). I found this worked best by using my zipper foot on my machine. You can hand-stitch it if you'd like. Snip up the middle of the remaining portion of the sock. This will become the bunny's legs.
Turn the other sock inside out. Fold it roughly in half, like this photo. Using your marker or pencil, mark one paw. Use the template above for your guide. Be sure to mark the straight side along the fold.
Pin through all the layers to mark the paw on the other side, then flip and trace the line that the pins make. Your paws may not be exactly identical, but they will be close.
For the ears, draw a straight line down from near the center of the toe. This will give your bun a little tip of color on his/her ears. You can make your ears as long or short as you'd like. Repeat the pin and redraw procedure.
After marking, stitch on the lines either on your sewing machine or by hand. Be sure when you stitch the ears that you leave the bottom open! After the ears and paws are stitched, cut them free from the sock. Turn them right side out. Here you can see one of each right side out, and one still inside out.
Stuff the paws. Stuff the ears if desired. I chose not to. I wanted more of the floppy ear look. If you want ears that stand up and are more perky, you'll need to stuff them for stability. Now that my bunny boy is done, I think I should have put a little stuffing in the tips to help weight them down. Again, your bunny, your choice. Be creative.
And now the fun begins! Stitch the ears and arms onto your bunny. I liked sewing the ears just below that black spot on the toe. Kind of like they are sticking out from under a little hat. I also sewed the arms on a bit high so they'd be covered by that leftover cuff. Speaking of which - roll the raw edge under.
Slide the cuff over the bunny's head. It will look like a little turtleneck.
To finish up the legs, start at the bottom of one leg. Roll in just a little bit of each open side on the long edge, and whipstitch all the way around to the other "foot". Stuff each leg. Fold in the bottom edge of each foot a little bit, then run a gathering stitch around. Pull tight to close, then whipstitch over the top to help keep the opening closed. Knot thread securely, and cut thread close to knot.
Special Addition: To make the tail: cut a circle from leftover sock material. I used the inside of a canning ring as a template.
Fold the raw edges in a bit and stitch with a gathering stitch. Add a wee bit of stuffing in the center and pull tight to close. Stitch to the bunny's little bum. I stitched mine so the wrong side of the fabric of my sock (which is white and fluffy) was out. You can sew yours how you like.
So this is where you need to call on your own creativity. Obviously, this little guy needs a face. I am going to embroider it. You can do the button eyes like we did for the glove bunny. You can add clothing (please remember choking hazzards for little ones and label your bunny appropriately when shipping). You could do fabric ears. Just have a lot of fun with it! Make a bunch!
As of today, I have 5 at my house and a commitment for 1 more. I'm hoping to get 100 donated. I need your help to do this! If you could take an evening this weekend and make a bunny, and ship it out either Saturday or Monday via Priority Mail, I know the children in Harrisburg will appreciate your generosity!
Remember, the bunny goes in a plastic bag to keep it clean. Label "Ages 3 and Under" or "Ages 4+".
We've named him Righteous. He reminds me of a skater dude, so he needs a really cool name. I know he's faceless right now. Don't worry, I'll take care of his adorable mug later today. I wanted to get the tutorial up as soon as possible because if you are joining in on the Bonus Craftivism Challenge, you need to mail your bunny (bunnies) no later than Monday, and then you'll need to mail them Priority Mail. So let's get started!
You will need one pair of size large cotton socks in at least a medium length. I used men's boot socks I found at Dollar General (2 pair/$4). I like how they looked like traditional sock monkey socks. You can use whatever socks you'd like.
You will also need a needle and thread, pins, polyester stuffing, and either a fabric marking pen (this is what I used) or a pencil, and decorations of your choice. Just remember, for The Bunny Project, if you use buttons, you must label your bun "Ages 4+".
As you put this little guy together, you'll see a lot of similarities to our glove bunny, so if you're new to sewing, this is a great "next-step" project for you.
Here is the template I used as my inspiration for my bunny. If you like to make sock monkeys or would like to learn, this is the best pattern, with the easiest instructions, I've found. Obviously, to make a bunny, we're going to do a few things differently, but you can get an idea of how this is all going to go together.
Time is short so let's get started!
Trim the cuff off one sock and save it for later. Stuff this sock up into the toe, and fill the foot portion roughly 1/3 full. Run a gathering stitch under the stuffing, starting in the center back and leaving a long starting tail. When you get all the way around, pull the starting tail and working thread to gather your sock around the stuffing. Do the criss-cross we did with the glove bunny, and tie TIGHTLY to secure. Snip threads close to your knot. This will make the little bunny head.
Pin through all the layers to mark the paw on the other side, then flip and trace the line that the pins make. Your paws may not be exactly identical, but they will be close.
For the ears, draw a straight line down from near the center of the toe. This will give your bun a little tip of color on his/her ears. You can make your ears as long or short as you'd like. Repeat the pin and redraw procedure.
After marking, stitch on the lines either on your sewing machine or by hand. Be sure when you stitch the ears that you leave the bottom open! After the ears and paws are stitched, cut them free from the sock. Turn them right side out. Here you can see one of each right side out, and one still inside out.
And now the fun begins! Stitch the ears and arms onto your bunny. I liked sewing the ears just below that black spot on the toe. Kind of like they are sticking out from under a little hat. I also sewed the arms on a bit high so they'd be covered by that leftover cuff. Speaking of which - roll the raw edge under.
Slide the cuff over the bunny's head. It will look like a little turtleneck.
Special Addition: To make the tail: cut a circle from leftover sock material. I used the inside of a canning ring as a template.
So this is where you need to call on your own creativity. Obviously, this little guy needs a face. I am going to embroider it. You can do the button eyes like we did for the glove bunny. You can add clothing (please remember choking hazzards for little ones and label your bunny appropriately when shipping). You could do fabric ears. Just have a lot of fun with it! Make a bunch!
As of today, I have 5 at my house and a commitment for 1 more. I'm hoping to get 100 donated. I need your help to do this! If you could take an evening this weekend and make a bunny, and ship it out either Saturday or Monday via Priority Mail, I know the children in Harrisburg will appreciate your generosity!
Remember, the bunny goes in a plastic bag to keep it clean. Label "Ages 3 and Under" or "Ages 4+".
Ship to:
First Church of God
1520 Mchaney Road
Harrisburg, IL 62946
THANK YOU!!!
Tuesday, March 27, 2012
BONUS CRAFTIVISM CHALLENGE
Have you heard of Harrisburg, IL? It's a small town in downstate Illinois that was recently flattened by an EF4 tornado. It's bad enough that these folks have lost pretty much everything, but they have been denied direct assistance from FEMA. They can get low interest loans from the Small Business Administration, but no grants. You can read more about the situation in this story from The Huffington Post.
God really put a burden on my heart for these people. I can't imagine what they must be going through.
And then I remembered a lady who collected sock monkeys for the children who are now homeless after the Texas wildfires. And that Still Small Voice said "you could collect sock bunnies for them for Easter". And you know what happens when those types of seeds get planted!
So I'm appealing to you today to make stuffed bunnies for the children of Harrisburg. The goal is to collect 100 bunnies and have them to the church by Easter. Princess gave me three bunnies this morning that she's crocheted, and Glove Bunny will be joining them in the journey south. So that makes 4 down, 96 to go. There are TONS of free patterns on the internet, and I'll be posting some other ideas over the next several days to inspire you.
Feel free to give your bunny as much personality as your heart desires. Keep in mind that there are both boys and girls, so if you feel your little bunny needs a bow tie instead of a dress, that's ok. Also, please remember that buttons, etc. can be a choking hazzard for little ones 3 and under. Only new, handmade bunnies will be accepted. Place your bunny in a plastic bag to keep it clean and label it "Safe for Under Age 3" or "Ages 4+" so the folks will be able to distribute the bunnies to the age-appropriate child.
Ship your bunny directly to:
God really put a burden on my heart for these people. I can't imagine what they must be going through.
And then I remembered a lady who collected sock monkeys for the children who are now homeless after the Texas wildfires. And that Still Small Voice said "you could collect sock bunnies for them for Easter". And you know what happens when those types of seeds get planted!
So I'm appealing to you today to make stuffed bunnies for the children of Harrisburg. The goal is to collect 100 bunnies and have them to the church by Easter. Princess gave me three bunnies this morning that she's crocheted, and Glove Bunny will be joining them in the journey south. So that makes 4 down, 96 to go. There are TONS of free patterns on the internet, and I'll be posting some other ideas over the next several days to inspire you.
Feel free to give your bunny as much personality as your heart desires. Keep in mind that there are both boys and girls, so if you feel your little bunny needs a bow tie instead of a dress, that's ok. Also, please remember that buttons, etc. can be a choking hazzard for little ones 3 and under. Only new, handmade bunnies will be accepted. Place your bunny in a plastic bag to keep it clean and label it "Safe for Under Age 3" or "Ages 4+" so the folks will be able to distribute the bunnies to the age-appropriate child.
Ship your bunny directly to:
First Church of God
1520 Mchaney Road
Harrisburg, IL, USA 62946
Be sure to leave time for your generous gift to get there in time for Easter.
When you make and ship your bunny (bunnies), please leave a comment below and tell us. Your story can inspire others!
Feel free to pass this on to your friends, family, neighbors, co-workers, church members
And thank you!
Tea for Tuesday - Flower Mug Mat Tutorial
Good morning, all! So nice to see all your bright, happy faces today! As promised, today we've got a tutorial for part of the Anthro-inspired quilt. We'll be crocheting, so grab a hook and some yarn - here we go!
This is what we're making today. Something nice and cheery for spring. The pattern we'll be doing is based on the one I created for the big flower on the skirt.
You'll notice that the edges of the white flower are kind of ruffly compared to the yellow flower. I'll explain how to do both in just a bit.
But first - you need a size G crochet hook and some cotton worsted weight yarn. Your choice of either one or two colors. We'll go over how to do it both ways.
Ready?
Here's a reminder of the abbreviations (these are US abbreviations):
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
Rnd = round (this one is new today)
If you just started crocheting with us back in January, look how much you've learned so far! Aren't you so clever! You'll also notice a new abbreviation up there - rnd for round instead of row. We're crocheting in the round today - something new. Don't worry, it's really not hard.
Start with ch 2, and make 6 sc in second ch from hook. Yes, they will all fit. You just have to slide the stitches over within the hole with your fingers. When you've got them all squished in, join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. You've now just made a circle.
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc's)
By the way, 2 sc (or any other stitch for that matter) into a stitch is an increase (abbreviated inc). If you see that in another pattern, now you will know what you are looking at. As your circle increases in size, you have to accommodate that with increases in the number of stitches.
Rnd 2: Ch1. *2 sc, then 1 sc in next stitch* around. In plain English, Make 2 sc in the first stitch, then only 1 in the next stitch. We've done repeats before, so just repeat what's between the two *'s all the way around. (18 sc).
Rnd 3: Ch1. *2 sc, then 1 sc in next 2 stitches* around. (24 sc). Now we are spreading out the increases around the circle equally - think of it like blowing up a balloon.
I think you can see now where we are headed with this...
Rnd 4: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 3 stitches* around (30 sc).
Rnd 5: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 4 stitches* around (36 sc).
Rnd 6: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 5 stitches* around (42 sc).
Rnd 7: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 6 stithces* around (48 sc).
So here's where I'm letting you make a choice. You can continue in the color you are using to make a flower that is one color (like the ivory one on the skirt), or you can fasten off and join a second color (like the sample photo above). I'm also going to show you some petal variations, so you may want to read all the way through before doing any more stitching.
This first petal variation is what's on the skirt. It makes the ruffly petals.
Start with a ch 3. Work 4 dc in same stitch. Sc in next stitch. *5 dc in next stitch, sc in following stitch* around. You'll recognize this type of shell from our butterfly yesterday. The shell is what makes the petals. Also, by putting the shells so close together, that's what gives us the ruffles.
You can see in the photo how they curl. We used this to our advantage on our butterfly.
For flat petals, the pattern is pretty similar.
Start with a ch 3 and 4 dc in the same stitch. *sk 1, sc, sk 1, 5 dc* around. By skipping a stitch, you spread the base of the shells out more evenly, which keeps them flat.
For bigger petals, which is what I have in the sample mug mat, make your shells using treble crochets.
Start with ch 4 (remember tr's are taller so you need that extra ch to reach the top) and 4 tr in the same stitch. *sk 1, sc, sk 1, 5 tr* around.
When I was working this sample up, I really liked the bigger petals for the mug mat. When I was making my skirt, I was in more of a hurry, and I wanted that little something more, so I just went with the smaller petals. No matter which way you choose, it will be fine.
So how about some more variations? Make your center smaller by doing fewer rounds and/or a smaller hook. Make it bigger by doing more rounds (remember to add 1 sc in each section like we did above). You can also make it bigger by using double crochets or even treble crochets. Make a bunch of the centers and use them for hexagons to make an afghan (think Grandma's Flower Garden quilt pattern). Make a bunch of flowers and stitch them together for a little girl's afghan. Make them all one color, or all different colors to use up your stash. For an afghan, I would highly suggest using acrylic yarn instead of the cotton. And speaking of a different yarn, make these with a steel hook and size 10 crochet cotton. Stitch them together for a doily or table runner.
I hope you're enjoying making the projects, but most importantly I hope you're learning that no pattern is set in stone. Feel free to explore different yarns and hook sizes. Play with the pattern to make it an expression of your own creative vision.
So grab your hook and some yarn and go play! Have a great day!
But first - you need a size G crochet hook and some cotton worsted weight yarn. Your choice of either one or two colors. We'll go over how to do it both ways.
Ready?
Here's a reminder of the abbreviations (these are US abbreviations):
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sk = skip
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
Rnd = round (this one is new today)
If you just started crocheting with us back in January, look how much you've learned so far! Aren't you so clever! You'll also notice a new abbreviation up there - rnd for round instead of row. We're crocheting in the round today - something new. Don't worry, it's really not hard.
Start with ch 2, and make 6 sc in second ch from hook. Yes, they will all fit. You just have to slide the stitches over within the hole with your fingers. When you've got them all squished in, join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. You've now just made a circle.
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc's)
By the way, 2 sc (or any other stitch for that matter) into a stitch is an increase (abbreviated inc). If you see that in another pattern, now you will know what you are looking at. As your circle increases in size, you have to accommodate that with increases in the number of stitches.
Rnd 2: Ch1. *2 sc, then 1 sc in next stitch* around. In plain English, Make 2 sc in the first stitch, then only 1 in the next stitch. We've done repeats before, so just repeat what's between the two *'s all the way around. (18 sc).
Rnd 3: Ch1. *2 sc, then 1 sc in next 2 stitches* around. (24 sc). Now we are spreading out the increases around the circle equally - think of it like blowing up a balloon.
I think you can see now where we are headed with this...
Rnd 4: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 3 stitches* around (30 sc).
Rnd 5: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 4 stitches* around (36 sc).
Rnd 6: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 5 stitches* around (42 sc).
Rnd 7: Ch 1. *2 sc, then sc in each of next 6 stithces* around (48 sc).
So here's where I'm letting you make a choice. You can continue in the color you are using to make a flower that is one color (like the ivory one on the skirt), or you can fasten off and join a second color (like the sample photo above). I'm also going to show you some petal variations, so you may want to read all the way through before doing any more stitching.
This first petal variation is what's on the skirt. It makes the ruffly petals.
Start with a ch 3. Work 4 dc in same stitch. Sc in next stitch. *5 dc in next stitch, sc in following stitch* around. You'll recognize this type of shell from our butterfly yesterday. The shell is what makes the petals. Also, by putting the shells so close together, that's what gives us the ruffles.
For flat petals, the pattern is pretty similar.
Start with a ch 3 and 4 dc in the same stitch. *sk 1, sc, sk 1, 5 dc* around. By skipping a stitch, you spread the base of the shells out more evenly, which keeps them flat.
For bigger petals, which is what I have in the sample mug mat, make your shells using treble crochets.
Start with ch 4 (remember tr's are taller so you need that extra ch to reach the top) and 4 tr in the same stitch. *sk 1, sc, sk 1, 5 tr* around.
When I was working this sample up, I really liked the bigger petals for the mug mat. When I was making my skirt, I was in more of a hurry, and I wanted that little something more, so I just went with the smaller petals. No matter which way you choose, it will be fine.
So how about some more variations? Make your center smaller by doing fewer rounds and/or a smaller hook. Make it bigger by doing more rounds (remember to add 1 sc in each section like we did above). You can also make it bigger by using double crochets or even treble crochets. Make a bunch of the centers and use them for hexagons to make an afghan (think Grandma's Flower Garden quilt pattern). Make a bunch of flowers and stitch them together for a little girl's afghan. Make them all one color, or all different colors to use up your stash. For an afghan, I would highly suggest using acrylic yarn instead of the cotton. And speaking of a different yarn, make these with a steel hook and size 10 crochet cotton. Stitch them together for a doily or table runner.
I hope you're enjoying making the projects, but most importantly I hope you're learning that no pattern is set in stone. Feel free to explore different yarns and hook sizes. Play with the pattern to make it an expression of your own creative vision.
So grab your hook and some yarn and go play! Have a great day!
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Crocheted Butterflies
Another beautiful butterfly for The Butterfly Project!
Insert hook into the very first chain.
Yarn over (yo), and pull that loop straight through the chain on your hook. You just made a slip stitch (sl st). And you made a ring.
If you feel confident reading the pattern from here on out, go for it. If you've played along at home, you know how to read all the abbreviations. Aren't you proud of yourself?! One of the biggest hangups people have about crocheting and knitting is reading a pattern, and you can do it. You are a crocheter - hear you roar! If you're feeling a little less than confident (it is Monday, after all), we'll start together on round 1.
Chain (ch) 3. Make 2 double crochet (dc). This makes the first of 8 clusters that will go in this ring. Instead of inserting your hook into the chain itself, insert it into the open circle part of the ring. When you are done with those 2 dc, ch 2. This will act as your space between these clusters. 3 dc, ch 2 around until you have 8 clusters total. This is what it looks like going from cluster 1, which starts with the chain 3, and ending with cluster 2, which is a 3 dc cluster.
Two down, 6 to go. Remember to do the ch 2 in between each of the clusters. End with a ch 2, and sl st into the top of that first ch 3.
On to round 2. This is my little variation here. When you make the ch 3 to start round 2, turn. Yep, turn. Most of the time, when you work in rounds, you work continuously in one direction. I found things worked better if I turned at the beginning of the round.
For round 2, you are now going to turn those clusters into shells, which will double the number of stitches. This will also make your piece get ruffly. Ruffly is good. Ruffly will get your piece to fold in half when you are done to make that gorgeous butterfly. By the way, you'll get ruffly any time you double the number of stitches from one row to the next, whether it's in the round or straight, sc, dc or something fancier. Just be aware. So here's the start of row 2 so you can see how the 3 dc, ch 2 works up into the shells.
In the first ch 2 space, after you've done ch 3, turn, make 2 dc. Ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 2, then make what I call the shell: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Make one shell in each of the ch 2 spaces in round one, and connect them with a ch 2. You should then have 16 (3 dc) clusters. When you get all the way around, ch 2 and sl st into the top of your original ch 3.
See the ruffliness I was telling you about?
And guess what you'll do next? You're right - ch 3, turn! You are getting so good at this - you are thinking like a crocheter! Woo Hoo!
Let's finish up round 3. After you ch 3 turn, work 7 dc in the next ch 2 space. No ch 2's this round - nope. These are going to be another variation on a shell, with many dc's worked into one space, and then anchored in the following (or other designated) space. When you've made your first shell (your turning chain and the 7 dc), sc in the next ch 2 space. Marie used sl st. Use whichever works best for you. Just don't use anything bigger than an sc, ok. Size does matter in some cases. This is the shell...
and this the anchor stitch (remember, I used a sc and Marie did sl st).
See how that stitch holds that last end in place and makes a firm foundation for the next shell? So keep working the 8 dc in a ch 2 space, then a sl st/sc in the next ch 2 space, all the way around. It will look something like this.
She really REALLY wants to fold up into a butterfly! Finish off, and leave a loooooong tail. You will be using this tail to sew the halves together. Wrestle your ruffles, until you fold the flower shape in half, with the top half matching where the tail is at the bottom. This is what I'm calling the front.
And this is the back.
I wove my yarn up through the center to the top, then wove it back down again. I tried to keep my stitching as inconspicuous as possible. That's one nice thing about the variegated (multi-color) yarns - they tend to hide within themselves pretty well.
I made a few overcast stitches through the tops of the dc's to secure it, then wove the end in on the underside between the wing sections. Then, I trimmed it.
To make the antennae, I used a G hook, and chained 25. Then I worked one row of sc back to the beginning and finished off. Since I don't know how the museum intends to hang/mount the butterflies, I wanted to be sure the antennae had some stability to them. Make sure to weave in the ends.
Cut a length of yarn about 18". Thread the yarn needle with it, and keep the needle standing by. Fold the antennae piece in half, matching the center to the center of the top of the butterfly. Starting fron inside the wing, weave the needle/yarn through the back side of a few stitches, then bring it to the outside. Go through the top loops of the antennae piece to attach it.
Continue working across, stitching where you can. Try to keep your stitches as hidden as possible. Big word for the day: unobtrusive. Finish off when you get across the other side, leaving as much of the antennae free as you wish. Be sure to weave in the ends on the underside of the wings, and trim.
Try making these with a size 10 crochet cotton and a 1.50 mm hook. Make them with a bulky yarn and a P hook. Make them with anything and everything in between, and don't forget to send them off to the museum!
And also, be sure to stop by Marie's blog and check out all her wonderful patterns. I'm heading back there myself to find a few more butterflies. Leave her a comment thanking her.
Have fun!
One of the joys of doing the blog-hops is finding the real gems. The day I found this one, I actually was praying about some other variations on a butterfly that we could do for the Craftivism Challenge. And there she was, my beautiful creative angel, Marie. You DEFINITELY need to check out her blog - she has all kinds of really amazing patterns, including several butterflies! This is the pattern she wrote down for our butterfly, in UK crochet terminology. And here's my tip if you are a crocheter in the US. Copy, paste, find, replace. Yes, it's a mnemonic. Mnemonics make life easy. Copy the pattern, paste it into a word processing program, find the UK terms and replace them with US terms. Seems simple enough, right? It is.
For the little beauty above, I copied the pattern from Marie's blog and pasted it into Word. I also took out most of the photos, because I just needed a photo of the finished product to gauge my progress. I clicked the "replace" button (which automatically finds and replaces), and started with the abbreviations. I substituted sc for dc, then dc for tr. Then I substituted for the words for these symbols (single crochet, double crochet). In three easy steps I converted this fantastic little pattern into my own crochet language.
So let me share with you how I made my butterfly from Marie's pattern. If you click through, you'll see how to start a pattern with a "magic chain". Since I know we have several beginners, we'll start with what we already know from our own projects here. If you want to give the magic chain a go, feel free. It's not that difficult (or at least not as hard as most people think it is). And once you learn it, it's another tool in your crochet tool belt. In this case, I chose to do the chain option.
I used a worsted weight acrylic yarn with a J hook. Marie used a sock weight yarn with a 1.75 mm hook. You can make these with any size hook and yarn your heart desires. When you check out her pattern, you can see that with a smaller hook and finer yarn, the butterflies develop a very lacy quality. And before I forget, a yarn needle is a must!
Here we go!
Chain 6.
If you feel confident reading the pattern from here on out, go for it. If you've played along at home, you know how to read all the abbreviations. Aren't you proud of yourself?! One of the biggest hangups people have about crocheting and knitting is reading a pattern, and you can do it. You are a crocheter - hear you roar! If you're feeling a little less than confident (it is Monday, after all), we'll start together on round 1.
Chain (ch) 3. Make 2 double crochet (dc). This makes the first of 8 clusters that will go in this ring. Instead of inserting your hook into the chain itself, insert it into the open circle part of the ring. When you are done with those 2 dc, ch 2. This will act as your space between these clusters. 3 dc, ch 2 around until you have 8 clusters total. This is what it looks like going from cluster 1, which starts with the chain 3, and ending with cluster 2, which is a 3 dc cluster.
For round 2, you are now going to turn those clusters into shells, which will double the number of stitches. This will also make your piece get ruffly. Ruffly is good. Ruffly will get your piece to fold in half when you are done to make that gorgeous butterfly. By the way, you'll get ruffly any time you double the number of stitches from one row to the next, whether it's in the round or straight, sc, dc or something fancier. Just be aware. So here's the start of row 2 so you can see how the 3 dc, ch 2 works up into the shells.
And guess what you'll do next? You're right - ch 3, turn! You are getting so good at this - you are thinking like a crocheter! Woo Hoo!
Let's finish up round 3. After you ch 3 turn, work 7 dc in the next ch 2 space. No ch 2's this round - nope. These are going to be another variation on a shell, with many dc's worked into one space, and then anchored in the following (or other designated) space. When you've made your first shell (your turning chain and the 7 dc), sc in the next ch 2 space. Marie used sl st. Use whichever works best for you. Just don't use anything bigger than an sc, ok. Size does matter in some cases. This is the shell...
See how that stitch holds that last end in place and makes a firm foundation for the next shell? So keep working the 8 dc in a ch 2 space, then a sl st/sc in the next ch 2 space, all the way around. It will look something like this.
I made a few overcast stitches through the tops of the dc's to secure it, then wove the end in on the underside between the wing sections. Then, I trimmed it.
To make the antennae, I used a G hook, and chained 25. Then I worked one row of sc back to the beginning and finished off. Since I don't know how the museum intends to hang/mount the butterflies, I wanted to be sure the antennae had some stability to them. Make sure to weave in the ends.
Try making these with a size 10 crochet cotton and a 1.50 mm hook. Make them with a bulky yarn and a P hook. Make them with anything and everything in between, and don't forget to send them off to the museum!
And also, be sure to stop by Marie's blog and check out all her wonderful patterns. I'm heading back there myself to find a few more butterflies. Leave her a comment thanking her.
Have fun!
Orphaned Glove Bunny Love
Winter is over, and if you have kids, I can promise you that you have a TON of "lonely gloves". Here's a great project to make with them...
Who would've guessed that we would have 8+ days above 80 degrees in northern Illinois in March. Seriously. And with the warmer weather, everyone has been packing up their winter gear, and in this process, maybe you've found a few gloves that are missing their mate. This post by Tamika at No Time for Tea Parties is a great tutorial of how to make a glove bunny from these "lonely gloves".
These are just so cute, I decided to give it a try myself, and I added a few touches of my own. Here's what we are making today.
Isn't she sweet? Tamika's glove bunny makes a perfect "blank canvas" for your inner doll maker. The whole process is also easy enough to follow that children can get in these too - think of this as a great project for your Brownie or Junior Girl Scout troop to do. This little cutie is all done with hand sewing, so if you're not comfortable sewing with a machine, you should seriously consider giving this a go.
Here's what you will need: Stretchy knit gloves. You can use orphans or pick up some at a dollar-type store pretty cheap. The top two pairs in the photo below we had as leftovers from a 3-pack. The bottom 8 pairs (those are all 2-packs), were on sale at our local Dollar General for $2 instead of their usual $3. That makes these gloves $1/pair. And since one pair of gloves makes 2 bunnies, that puts our little friends at 50 cents each. I think I can fit that into my craft budget! I thought the bright striped gloves would make for some really fun bunnies!
You will also need a sewing needle and a spool of thread that matches your glove, some stuffing (polyester fiberfill or your filling of choice), and an embroidery needle and embroidery floss to give our hare a face. Other decorations will be described below. These are entirely optional, but they are a great way to use up items in your stash.
Here is the pair of gloves I decided to use first.
Following Tamika's directions, I trimmed off the thumb (straight line right along the hand portion of the glove), index finger, and pinky. I also trimmed the thumb piece straight, and made it the same length as the index finger. You'll see why in just a bit. Now, turn the glove inside out.
Carefully snip open the cuff.
Like this.
Stitch the finger and thumb holes closed. I originally used an overcast stitch, but I will use a small running stitch when I make the next one. It will leave a more finished edge on the outside (and remember how finished edges take a project from homemade to handcrafted?). Turn your glove back around, right side out.
Stuff the bunnies ears. If desired, you can run a gathering stitch across the bottom to give them more definition. Next, stuff the finger and thumb pieces.
Tuck the edges in toward the stuffing. Sew the arms onto the body about half-way down. Here's arm #1.
And arm #2.
Snip the cuff in half to make two legs.
Stuff the very top part of the body. Make a long running stitch under this stuffing. This will make the bunny's neck. Leave a long tail. Holding this tail, pull the stitches tight.
To secure, cross the threads in the back, wrap around and cross in the front, then wrap them around to the back again. Tie tightly, and snip threads close to the knot.
Look at the cute little head!
So I have to apologize here - for this next section, you are going to have to just trust me on the directions. Not one single photo I took came out clear. Not one. Because I'm getting really good at Practice Mondays and Carry-Over Mondays. Everyone has to be good at something, right? My camera is a big-picture kind of being. It can't wrap it's little digital mind around all the small details.
Don't worry, it's not complicated at all. Just take your time, and go step by step. If you feel totally confused, feel free to email me (address on contact page). I'll do my best to help.
Our bunny is feeling hungry - her little tummy is empty. Stuff the belly portion ABOVE where the cuff/legs meet the future torso. Repeat the running stitch across the top of the legs, which will also sew up her "personal areas". If desired, you can run another set of stitching to give the legs more individual definition. I chose not to do this.
You will alse need to stitch up her inseam. The knit fabric of the glove should curl in towards the center of each leg. Use this to your advantage, and stitch this seam shut with the raw edges in. Overcast stitch here is fine. Stuff each leg with fiberfill. Roll the bottom of her bunny feet in towards the stuffing, and using a gathering stitch, sew them shut. You now have a perfectly usable bunny doll, made by upcycling a glove! Welcome to the world of dollmaking!
So it was at this point that I wanted to give my new friend some of the personality I knew she had inside. I started by giving her a tail. Take the pinky piece you saved and cut it about halfway between where the curve of the fingertip meets the straight side and the bottom cut edge. That was a mouthful, and hopefully you get the picture. The photo below shows a practice piece that I cut too short, but I think you can get a good idea. I actually cut it where the curvy portion meets the straight side, so when you make yours, cut about half-way between where you can see that I cut and that bottom raw edge. Make sense now?
Add a bit of stuffing, fold in the raw edges and using a gathering stitch, sew it closed. Then sew it to your bunny's bum. I like how the tail helps stabilize her body for sitting.
Tamika used french knots to make her bunnies eyes. If you are making your bunny for a child under the age of 3, I suggest doing the same thing to prevent choking. I chose to do small buttons because my bunny will go to an older child, and also because I can't make french knots. You can also do whatever embroidery you'd like, or use felt/fabric. Whatever works best for you, using what you have on hand.
This is the "design on the fly" portion of our program today...
I also decided to give her some ribbons on her ears.
She needed a dress, so I snagged a piece of pretty floral that would match her eyes (and why I chose that color for the ribbon). I cut out a rectangle after doing a rough measure to make sure that the scrap would cover Miss Bunny all the way around.
After cutting the rectangle, I pressed all the raw edges under 1/4". Then I folded the two short ends into the center of the rectangle and pressed. I cut along these new creases. Now, I had a front, which was the bigger piece, and two back pieces. This enables you to have side seams that you can stitch up to Bunny's armpits, as well as make a center back seam that accommodates her fluffy cotton tail. Match a back piece to a front piece (raw edges together, right sides facing) and measure where the armhole will begin. Mark that place with a pin. Start stitching from the hem up to the armhole. Hide your knot in the hem like this:
Then just do a simple running stitch all the way up to the pin. Repeat for the other armhole on the other side.
In the back, match the pressed edges and mark for the tail hole with pins, just like before. This picture shows the right side facing out. You need the wrong side facing out. I only used the right side of the fabric so you could see the pins better. Running stitch from hem to bottom of tail hole, and from top down to tail hole.
Turn your garment right side out and help Miss Bunny into her fancy new dress. Match up the top of the back to the top of the front. If you need to, fold the top of the back down a bit more. Finger crease it.
Hold the shoulders together with pins. I just matched the edges with no overlap.
Start in the center back, and do a gathering stitch all the way around the neck, pulling as needed to get it to fit. Knot your thread and trim the ends.
And here she is in her finished dress!
For the record, I went back and did a few extra stitches at the top and bottom of the tail hole, just to be sure it wasn't gappy or "immodest". This is where I also added the ribbon bow at the neckline. What you won't see here is the detail I added to the hem. I did some simple cross-stitching on the bottom of the hem. Nothing fancy - they weren't even all the same size. It was just a folk-art-type element that I thought would jazz up the dress a little bit more. I was right. You could also add some lace or other trims or stitching. Or not - your choice.
So what's a new dress without new shoes to go with it?!
I clipped the thumbs off a spare pair of black gloves.
Trim the raw edges so they are straight and even. Fold the raw edges under, slide them on her little feet, and stitch them to the legs.
Modesty is important, so our little miss needs some underthings. Start with a scrap of eyelet.
I started in the center back, just under her tail, and stitched it to the body through the bound edge. When I got back to where I started, I overlapped the edges, and trimmed the curves to match. Then I stitched the crotch with about 5 or 6 quick stitches, to make it look like real lace bloomers.
Like I said, I was designing on the fly. When you make your bunny, if you choose to do the bloomers, do them BEFORE you do the dress. Same for the shoes.
Final touch: embroidered her little nose and mouth.
Embrace your inner dollmaker and have some fun with these. Make funky colors, make different clothes, add some hair. Add pink (or other color) to the ears. Give her a heart on her belly (like a Raggedy Ann (TM) doll).
Have a great rest of the weekend, everyone! See you tomorrow!
And PS - be sure you click through on one of the links above to thank Tamika for such a wonderul inspiration piece!
Who would've guessed that we would have 8+ days above 80 degrees in northern Illinois in March. Seriously. And with the warmer weather, everyone has been packing up their winter gear, and in this process, maybe you've found a few gloves that are missing their mate. This post by Tamika at No Time for Tea Parties is a great tutorial of how to make a glove bunny from these "lonely gloves".
These are just so cute, I decided to give it a try myself, and I added a few touches of my own. Here's what we are making today.
Here's what you will need: Stretchy knit gloves. You can use orphans or pick up some at a dollar-type store pretty cheap. The top two pairs in the photo below we had as leftovers from a 3-pack. The bottom 8 pairs (those are all 2-packs), were on sale at our local Dollar General for $2 instead of their usual $3. That makes these gloves $1/pair. And since one pair of gloves makes 2 bunnies, that puts our little friends at 50 cents each. I think I can fit that into my craft budget! I thought the bright striped gloves would make for some really fun bunnies!
Here is the pair of gloves I decided to use first.
Following Tamika's directions, I trimmed off the thumb (straight line right along the hand portion of the glove), index finger, and pinky. I also trimmed the thumb piece straight, and made it the same length as the index finger. You'll see why in just a bit. Now, turn the glove inside out.
Carefully snip open the cuff.
Stitch the finger and thumb holes closed. I originally used an overcast stitch, but I will use a small running stitch when I make the next one. It will leave a more finished edge on the outside (and remember how finished edges take a project from homemade to handcrafted?). Turn your glove back around, right side out.
So I have to apologize here - for this next section, you are going to have to just trust me on the directions. Not one single photo I took came out clear. Not one. Because I'm getting really good at Practice Mondays and Carry-Over Mondays. Everyone has to be good at something, right? My camera is a big-picture kind of being. It can't wrap it's little digital mind around all the small details.
Don't worry, it's not complicated at all. Just take your time, and go step by step. If you feel totally confused, feel free to email me (address on contact page). I'll do my best to help.
Our bunny is feeling hungry - her little tummy is empty. Stuff the belly portion ABOVE where the cuff/legs meet the future torso. Repeat the running stitch across the top of the legs, which will also sew up her "personal areas". If desired, you can run another set of stitching to give the legs more individual definition. I chose not to do this.
You will alse need to stitch up her inseam. The knit fabric of the glove should curl in towards the center of each leg. Use this to your advantage, and stitch this seam shut with the raw edges in. Overcast stitch here is fine. Stuff each leg with fiberfill. Roll the bottom of her bunny feet in towards the stuffing, and using a gathering stitch, sew them shut. You now have a perfectly usable bunny doll, made by upcycling a glove! Welcome to the world of dollmaking!
So it was at this point that I wanted to give my new friend some of the personality I knew she had inside. I started by giving her a tail. Take the pinky piece you saved and cut it about halfway between where the curve of the fingertip meets the straight side and the bottom cut edge. That was a mouthful, and hopefully you get the picture. The photo below shows a practice piece that I cut too short, but I think you can get a good idea. I actually cut it where the curvy portion meets the straight side, so when you make yours, cut about half-way between where you can see that I cut and that bottom raw edge. Make sense now?
Tamika used french knots to make her bunnies eyes. If you are making your bunny for a child under the age of 3, I suggest doing the same thing to prevent choking. I chose to do small buttons because my bunny will go to an older child, and also because I can't make french knots. You can also do whatever embroidery you'd like, or use felt/fabric. Whatever works best for you, using what you have on hand.
This is the "design on the fly" portion of our program today...
I also decided to give her some ribbons on her ears.
She needed a dress, so I snagged a piece of pretty floral that would match her eyes (and why I chose that color for the ribbon). I cut out a rectangle after doing a rough measure to make sure that the scrap would cover Miss Bunny all the way around.
Start in the center back, and do a gathering stitch all the way around the neck, pulling as needed to get it to fit. Knot your thread and trim the ends.
So what's a new dress without new shoes to go with it?!
I clipped the thumbs off a spare pair of black gloves.
Final touch: embroidered her little nose and mouth.
Have a great rest of the weekend, everyone! See you tomorrow!
And PS - be sure you click through on one of the links above to thank Tamika for such a wonderul inspiration piece!
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