Anthro Inspired Skirt Tutorial

So here's the tutorial I promised...

To refresh everyone's memory, I found this late last fall, and said "I HAVE to make one!"  She is beautiful, no?!

(SOURCE)

This is the piece I entered back in February for Creative Bloggers Got Talent, and today I'm going to show you how to make one for yourself.

I bought a pattern for $1.65 (on sale and with teacher discount), made a base template from muslin (leftover from another project - you could use a repurposed bed sheet), and repurposed denim from blue jeans.  I think I paid more for the zipper than anything else!

One Yard Wednesday - Easy Spring Table Runner

Remember that sheet we made the tablecloth from?  You might want to dig out the scraps...

So fish out the remnants of that sheet we made the tablecloth from.  Then find some fat quarters, half yards, or pieces that are close to fat quarters and half-yards.  Or some jelly roll strips.

Here's what I pulled out.

Obviously, all your fabrics need to be prewashed and pressed.  I knew mine had been washed recently, so I only had to iron.

Trim your sheet fabric so that you have a long rectangle by removing the curved portion.

Then remove the side and bottom seams.

Now, I have to warn you.  This is where you have to use math.  I know.  I'm sorry.  Aren't you glad I'm not dropping this in your lap on a Monday morning before you had your coffee?!

Measure the table you are making the table runner for.  I did mine for my dining room table, which is about 61" long.  Now decide how long in relation to the length of your table you want your runner to be.  I wanted mine to be most of the length of the table.  Since I like numbers that are simple, I decided I wanted my runner to be about 3/4 that length.  Forty-eight (48) is roughly 3/4 of 61, so I cut the sheet fabric to 48 1/2".  This includes a 1/4" seam allowance. I did this by placing the fold at 24 1/4".  The photo shows 25", but I'm sure you get the idea. Cut the open end at your 0 line of your cutting mat.

Then, you need to cut the fabric you will use as trim around the outside edges.  And here's more math.  I really am sorry...

First, measure your fabric.  This is the fabric I had originally decided to use.  You can see from the photo that it's 33" long by 13" wide.

If I decided that I wanted my border to be 2", I'd want to cut my strips 2 1/2" wide.  I also need enough length to go all the way around my new giant rectangle.  Remember calculating perimeter in geometry?

2L + 2W = P

For mine that works up to be

[2 times 49.5] + [2 times 9] = 

99 + 18 = 117"

This is great because:

I know - you are shouting "WAIT A MINUTE! WAIT A MINUTE!  There are two different equations in that photo!"

Here's how it all fits together.  I want my strips to be 2 1/2" wide.  My fabric is 13" wide.  By dividing the width by the width of the strips, I'll get 5 strips when I cut.  That's a decent number of strips!  So far so good, right?  Ok, these 5 strips are 33" long.  When I sew these together, I need to know that when they are all combined, they will be long enough to go all the way around my table runner.  I need 117", and with this piece of fabric, I've got 165".  That's more than enough,even with seam allowances.

When I looked at my table runner, though, it just didn't seem wide enough for my taste.  I upped my border to 4 1/2".  Guess what - this piece of fabric wasn't going to be big enough.  So I found one that was.  If this is the case at your house, there are options.  You can do what I did, which was find a bigger piece in my stash, so my border would be all one color.  You can also use oddments of fabric to make a patchwork border.  You can do the sides one color and the ends another.  It's your table runner, so you decide what you like best.  If you need to, audition your fabrics BEFORE you cut them.  Take the extra few minutes to be sure that you will get your desired results.

So back to our project!

I cut 4 strips of fabric, 40-ish" long and 4 1/2" wide.  I sewed them together, two at a time, using chain piecing.  If you've never heard of this technique, you will LOVE IT!  It can save you so much time when you are piecing quilt blocks, projects using jelly roll strips, and all kinds of other places.  I even use it when I'm making the body part of Little Dresses and the legs of Little Boy Shorts when I'm doing a whole bunch of them at once.  Like I said - it can be such a timesaver you will find new and creative ways to apply it to your sewing.  Oh, and it also saves you a boatload of thread, which also saves you money.  BONUS!

Chain piecing means that instead of stopping your sewing, cutting the thread, and then starting another piece, you simply do a few stitches after you go across the end of one set of pieces and start the next set of pieces. It looks like this.

So you've sewn your strips together with a 1/4" seam allowance.  Press the seams open.  Find the center on the lengthwise side of your sheet rectangle, and match the seam to that center point.

Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the two pieces together starting at one end of the sheet piece and going all the way to the other end on the lengthwise side.  Trim off the ends of your accent fabric at the edge of the sheet fabric.  Don't worry - you'll use these shorter pieces in a minute.

 Press your seam towards the border fabric.  Then, press the raw (unstitched) edge under 1/4".

Fold the border strip in half, with the pressed edge overlapping the seam.  Press.  It should look like the border stip on the left.

Pin this edge if desired.  To stitch, you can use just a plain straight stitch, a zigzag stitch, or a decorative stitch.  I chose a decorative stitch, and stitched the border in place with the right (front) side facing.  How you sew this closed will be up to you.  Trust your judgment - you'll make the right decision.

We are going to repeat this procedure on a smaller scale for the ends.  Use one of your small leftover pieces from your side borders, and center it on one end of your table runner.  Fold in the sides to make a more finished edge.  Pin in place, and sew the seam with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Press the seam towards the border fabric, and press a 1/4" hem on the raw edge, just like the long side.  Fold in half and press, just like before.

Now this is where you can do this a few different ways.  You can straight stitch the seam.  You can zigzag it or use a decorative stitch.  Also, you can choose where you stitch.  I chose to only do the decorative stitch in the center because I am also using it on the outside edge as well.  You can decide where and how you'd like to stitch.  Don't you feel so empowered?!

This is what mine looks like at this point.

To make the outside border, I turned the pins you see above 90 degrees to hold the edges in place, then I did a decorative stitch all the way around the outside edge.  You can do straight stitch, zigzag or whatever your beautiful heart desires.  This stitching will not only make your piece look more finished, but it will close those side gaps on the ends.  If you are concerned about the spaces in the seams on the back on the short sides, you can take a needle and thread and hand-tack them with matching thread (so your stitches don't show on the front).  I chose not to - I don't mind some embroidery now and then, but I'm not that crazy about hand-sewing.  That's why I have a machine.

So let's discuss a few options that we haven't already talked about.  Don't have the leftovers of a sheet?  Use fabric from your stash, cutting it and seaming it in the center if needed.  You can also use a pillowcase that's been cut apart - remove the side seam and about 1/2" off the center fold, and also the hemmed end.  Similar to what we did for the Little Dresses.  We already talked about making a pieced/patchwork border.  Feel free to change up the size based on what you like and what you have on hand.  We talked about stitching options - use matching or contrasting thread, whichever you'd prefer.  I loved how this baby pink thread added to the vintage feel of the rose fabric.  I could very easily have used the "Boy Scout Pants Green" I used on the tablecoth originally.  Make yourself a bunch of these, one for every season.  Make them smaller to use as placemats.  Use a sheet to make a rectangular tablecloth, and use this technique to add a fancy border.  Use this border technique to add a fabric hem to a denim skirt, or an apron.

Have fun!

One Yard Wednesday - Giant Round Table Cloth

Maybe you have a round table in your house.  Maybe this round table is 20" in diameter.  Or maybe, like my round table, it is bigger.  Like a LOT bigger!

When my mom passed nearly 9 years ago, I inherited an antique table that was hand-built from solid oak by my 3rd-great-grandfather back around the turn of the 20th century.  He was a carpenter.  He also made for himself this amazing tool chest that had sliding trays, and slots for all of his saws.  Obviously he was very skillful!  He also had many children, which brings me back to the table.  To fit everyone around it at dinner time, the table had to be gigantic.  My mom always used a 70" round table cloth on it, and the cloth only hung over the sides by a few inches.  Yeah, it's really that big.  And that's without the 7 leaves that he built to put in it!  Did I also mention it literally weighs about 500 pounds?

So let's fast forward up to today...

The BIG DAY for SPH is coming up, and for the set, I'm allowed to use their picnic table instead of the regular coffee table.  YAY!  EXCEPT that it's octagonal. Oh...

Not to worry - I can just use a round table cloth.  I thought for sure someone in the family had saved my mom's tablecloths.  Nope.  I looked at our local stores.  All they had was vinyl, which may be shiny on camera.

Then, I remembered a trick from a class my mom and I had gone to at Minnesota Fabrics nearly 20 years ago.  Today, I'll share that trick with you.

For today's One Yard Wednesday, you will need a bed sheet.  Old or new won't matter for the technique, but if you are making this to have something nice for when company comes, you may want to consider new. That's what I did.

Also, consider the size of your circle.  It should be big enough to cover the top of your table, then hang down a bit.  This is called the drop.  The table I am covering is 48" across.  I wanted to have a really nice drop to it.  To do this, I used a twin bed sheet, and my circle is 72" across.  Your circle needs to be the diameter of your table PLUS however much you want for a drop (times 2).  I know, it's math.  I'm sorry.

Here's how that would play out with real numbers.  I need my circle to be 48" across.  If I want a 6" drop, then I'd calculate it this way:

48 + (6 x2) = 48 + 12 = 60

No bed sheet?  No worries.  You can take 2 equal lengths of fabric (how long will depend on the size of your circle) and seam them together.  Press the seam open on the back to ensure that your tablecloth will lie flat.  This works well, too, if you have a smaller table - you could easily piece two fat quarters of the same fabric together, then press the seam.

So let's get back to the project at hand...

I used a twin size bed sheet.  I knew from quilting that they are about 70-ish", when you remove the side hems.  It was cheap, too.  And in a color I know will work well with the set at the TV studio.

I washed it, dried it, pressed it and folded it in quarters (half lengthwise, then half width-wise).

I laid it out on my floor to work - remember it's a really big circle, so give yourself plenty of space to work.

Next, cut a piece of sting the length of the radius of your circle (half way across the circle) PLUS 2".  This is my sample piece.  The piece I really used had the extra 2" on it, but this picture gives you an idea of how you can measure it.

With that extra couple inches, tie a slip knot around a pencil or fabric marking pen.

Line up the other end with the corner of your fabric.

Secure this end with painters' tape or masking tape.

Now, you've basically made yourself a compass.  Remember those pointy things from school that helped to draw circles?  Hold the tape end down with your hand (if you can reach), a hubby, a kiddo, a friend, or even a heavy book.  Gently pull the string straight, and move it in an arc.  I used a Sharpie to go over my line so you can see it against the pale sheet.  Also, try to keep your fabric as flat and wrinkle free as possible.

Cut along this line.  Be sure to save your scraps.

You can see how big mine is when I spread it out across my dining room table.

So if you wanted just a circular table topper to just throw over a table, whether the table already had a cloth on it or not, you can stop here.

For something more finished, the last few steps are actually really easy.  Just a rolled hem and stitch it down.

Fold the edge of your circle in about 1/4", and press.  Don't worry if it's perfect, just try your best.

Once you've gotten all the way around, fold in another 1/4".  This process takes a while, so be patient.

At this point, you can simply stitch the hem with a straight stitch.  Be sure that the right side is facing up, so your bobbin threads are underneath.

If you want something fancier, you can choose a decorative stitch on your machine if you have one.  I liked this one, and tested it on some scraps.

You'll notice, if you look closely, that the first several started to pucker.  I adjusted the tension on my machine so that the stitches would stay nice and flat.  Then I tested some thread colors.  I wanted something that coordinated, and I happened to have this color in my stash (it's Boy Scout uniform pants green).  To do the decorative stitching takes a lot more thread than usual, and I was very blessed to have an extra spool of this in my sewing bag.

So this is the step that takes lots and lots and LOTS of patience.  Use your decorative stitch all the way around to finish the hem.  This takes quite a while, so if you need to stop part way around and stretch, do it. Remember (sorry, more math here), the circumference of a circle (the measurement of all the way around) is 3 times-ish the diameter (the measurement across).  For me, that was over 200".  I felt like I was sewing forever!

But, I think you'll agree with me, it's worth it!  Here's the finished cloth, folded again so we could get a good picture.

Here's a close-up of the finished hem.

While I was stitching, my mind began to wander, and I thought of some ideas for this project.  Want matching napkins?  Buy matching pillowcases, and cut squares or rectangles of desired size.  Then, simply hem them the same way.  Repurpose two old bed sheets (same size), following the steps above.  The sheets don't have to be pretty, or even match.  Stains would be ok, but no holes.  When it's time to stitch the hems, pin them together, wrong (back) sides facing.  Now, you have a reversible picnic/beach blanket.  You could throw it over a picnic table, too.  Do the same thing with 2 smaller circles, and use it as a baby throw.  This would be wonderful for going over the handle of a baby carrier.  Make several smaller circles to use as placemats.  Use your jelly roll stash to make binding for the hem for a big pop of color.

Like I said, it took a looooooong time to go around that hem, so I had lots of time to daydream!

Enjoy your new tablecloth!

One Yard Wednesday - Ruffled Apron

A cute little apron - perfect for hosting a Super Bowl party!

This cute little number is based on the "Kitschy Kitchen Apron" pattern in One-Yard Wonders by Rebecca Yaker and Patricia Hoskins, on page 56.  The original was designed by Mother's Apron Strings, as noted in the book.    One-Yard Wonders is a great title to have in your craft library - great little projects, complete patterns and diagrams.  Each project has room to be personalized in some way to suit your tastes.

For this project, Rebecca and Patricia used one piece of a bordered fabric.  This would be a great way to repurpose a bordered tablecloth that may have too many stains in certain areas to make it practical to use anymore.  I'm using up some of my stash.  Make it from your stash, from fat quarters and jelly roll strips, in your favorite team's colors, or Christmas colors, or any color(s) that you choose.  Make it from one piece of fabric or many.  Make one or a dozen - these would make lovely mother/sister-in-law and prayer partner/secret sister gifts.

For our new sewists, today's two new skills are gathering stitches and attaching a set-on waistband.

So let's stop chatting and start sewing!

Here's what you need:
3/4 yard fabric A, cotton fabric, about 45" wide
1/2 yard fabric B, cotton fabric, about 45" wide
Rotary cutter and mat (or ruler and scissors) and other basic sewing supplies
Knitting needle or long, narrow pointy object for turning apron strings

If you choose to do this from one piece of fabric, it's best to follow the diagram in the book.  These girls really do know how to stretch a yard of fabric and get the most out of it!  If you are doing it from more than one piece, you may want to make a sketch of how your pieces are going to fit on your fabric.  Here is the diagram I made for myself, based on the measurements given in the book.

Fabric A

Fabric B

These are initial diagrams, and not to scale, but you can see how the pieces will fit onto the two different fabrics.  So after going through the whole process, here's what and how to cut the pieces for the apron.

Fabric A

1 apron base, 27" on the bottom, 22" across the top and 20" tall (trapezoid)

1 ruffle, 6" wide by 27" long (that's the other rectangle on the diagram - I changed the numbers, compared to those in the book, based on my personal preferences)

Fabric B

Cut 3 strips, all 5" x 31"

(also changed from numbers in book based on personal preference)

You can use extra fabric for pockets, if desired.  And speaking of fabric, these two are from Joann Fabrics.

Unless otherwise stated, use a 1/2" seam allowance.

Start by making a 1/4" rolled hem on your trapezoid, on both sides and the bottom.  You'll remember how to do this from the Little Shorts.

You can miter the corners, like we did for the pocket on the Little Boy Shorts if desired.  I did because I think it gave the hem a nicer finish.

This is what it will look like when you are done pressing.

Topstitch this hem on the right side (front) around all three sides.  I used a decorative stitch.  You can use a straight stitch or a zig zag or a decorative stitch - your apron, your choice.  I also used a matching thread.  You can match, coordinate, or contrast as desired.


If you are adding pockets to the front, now is the time to do it.  Measure where you'd like them to be, and stitch them on.  Not sure how to do a pocket?  Read here.


Press one short end of each apron string piece in 1/2".

Fold these pieces in half LENGTHWISE with right sides together.  Start sewing on the non-folded end, turn the corner and sew the long edge.  Clip the corner and trim the extra fabric on the sewn short end to 1/4" away from the seam.

Using a knitting needle, turn the strings so that right sides are facing.  If you've never done this before, here is how to do it.  Press well, and topstitch all the way around.  Again, whatever stitch and thread you choose.

Now, it's on to the ruffle.  Start by making a 1/4" rolled hem on one long side and both short sides, press and topstitch.

So let me share with you a secret I learned years and years ago, sewing a LOT of gathered skirts with set-on waistbands.  You will notice in the photo above a lonely red pin in the center.  Find the center of your ruffle piece by folding the short ends together, and marking the center with a pin.  Next, fold each short end to the center, and mark these "quarters" with a pin, and do the same thing for the apron front.

Back to your ruffle piece.  If you have a ruffle attachment, use that and stitch between the pins.  If you don't (or if you're like me and have one but have no clue how to use it), set the stitch length on your machine to its highest number of stitches per inch.  Pull out a looooong tail (mine was a good 6-8") of thread behind the needle and bobbin, then stitch at 1/4" between the topstitching on one end and the first pin.  STOP!  Repeat between each pin.  Only stitch between the pins.  When you are all the way across, pull out another looooong tail, then cut the thread from the machine.   Clip threads between the pins, leaving really long tails for each side.  These tails are what you will pull to make the gathers that make the ruffle ruffly.  You need to have enough thread so you can hang on to it.

Match the center of your ruffle to the center of the apron front.  Pin raw edges together at centers and quarters, matching the pins.

Pull thread gently in each section to gather.  You may have to try different thread tails to find which one works best.  Mine was the ending top thread.  I've done projects where it was the bobbin thread.  I think it probably depends on your machine.  Your goal here is to try to get roughly equal gathers between each set of pins.  Once you've done that, pin the top edge into place.  Use as many pins as you think you need.  Change the stitch length on your machine back to the number appropriate for your fabric.  Stitch the now-ruffly ruffle to the apron base, using a 1/4" seam.

For the waistband, press one long edge under 1/2".  You had to remove the pins from your apron base/ruffle while sewing, so find the center and quarters again, and mark.  Match the unpressed (raw) edge of the right side of the waistband to the right side of the apron/ruffle at the center and quarters.  Pin as necessary to keep the ruffles from getting attached in the seam.

Now this is the only really tricky part.  Stitch the waistband to the apron, 1/2" seam allowance.  I go VERRRRRRY VERRRRRRY SLOW, and I keep my left hand between the ruffle and the waistband.  I sew pin to pin.  It seems like it takes forever!  But!  I learned a long time ago, that it is a huge pain in the neck to have to go back and rip out sections to re-sew when you catch the gathers in your seam.  I'm trying to save you the pain.  Think of me as Human Aspirin.  Once you are all the way across, press the seam toward the waistband.  Be sure that you press the entire lower edge

Fold waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch short ends with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Clip corners, trim excess fabric, and turn right side out.  Press.  Match lower edges of waistband and pin.  Topstitch waistband on front side of apron.

Pin one apron string to each end of the waistband, overlapping about 1" - 1 1/2".  Stitch in place.  I used the same decorative stitch because it is also a good reinforcing stitch.  I also stitched one row to overlap the topstitching of the waistband, and the other row to overlap the topstitching of the apron tie.

In the book, an option is offered to add cute, vintage-type buttons.  If I had used them, I would have put them here.  It would have made a nice accent.

And now you're done!  Enjoy your new apron!

One Yard Wednesday - A Ray of Sunshine

A cute little bag in bright sunny yellow - to cheer the drear, and haul the keys.  And the cell phone.  And the wallet. Or maybe your lunch?  For only a yard of fabric.

Sorry - sideways photo.  Everyone please lean left.  Look how fun - polka dots!  Flowers!  Rick Rack!

A tutorial today, complete with photos AND diagrams.  Wow - slick!

So here's what you need:
1/2 yard Fabric A for the exterior and inside pockets (JoAnn Fabrics)
1/2 yard Fabric B for the lining (Connecting Threads)
Both should be cotton fabric, and approx. 40+" wide.
Sewing tools - pins, scissors, rotary cutter & mat, thread, etc.
One length of large rick rack, color of choice, cut to 20"

This is how I started - just an idea doodled onto some scratch paper:

Then I got a little more serious, and decided to map it out on graph paper.  And I have some really big graph paper!

I doodled some more and measured and listed my objectives for this project, like the fabric requirements, and all my other ideas I wanted to incorporate.  Then I sketched some more.

And here's how it all works out...

From each fabric cut:
1 strip 2 1/2" x width of fabric
1 piece 18 1/2" x 10 1/2"
Also, 1 strip from Fabric A 4 1/2" x 18 1/2" (feel free to change the 3 1/2" measurements to suit your tastes.
You can also cut a piece of Fabric B to a desired size to make an outside pocket (or pockets).

There is a 1/4" seam allowance throughout.  Not sure where that 1/4" is on your machine?  Use your general purpose sewing foot, then use the right edge of the foot as your guide.  That's what I use for most things that require 1/4" seams.  If you are doing precision piecing on a quilt, where that 1/4" is the difference between a really nice quilt, and a knock-your-socks-off quilt, put both the needle and presser foot down.  Then, lift just the presser foot.  Line up a small ruler with the needle, and make a guideline on the throat plate with painter's tape at the 1/4" mark.  Use the really skinny painter's tape - you may have to buy it at a paint store.  Don't worry, it's not that expensive.

Finished bag is roughly 6" x 3" x 10".

Fabric A is on the bottom here, and Fabric B is on the top.  I trimmed them both to 18" to meet the 1/2 yard measurement.  Like I said the extra fabric can be used for pockets on this bag or another project, used in a scrappy quilt, etc.

After you cut your pieces, you will press all 4 edges of the pocket piece down 1/4" and straight stitch them into place.

Next you will make your straps.  With right sides (the printed sides) together, stitch up one long side, across the one short side, then back down the other long side.  This makes a great big tube. You will need to turn it right side out.  You can do this one of two ways.  I used the end of a knitting needle.

Separate the layers at the short end, then tuck the head of the knitting needle into the little pocket that this makes.  Push the needle and pull the fabric back up over it, until all the fabric is reversed.  Then line up your seams as best you can, and press it flat.

The other way to do this:  Sew a long piece of string THROUGH the short end at the top.  Since I don't have a photo, here's a diagram:

Put a little tail of the string in between the two pieces of fabric, then drape the long end of the string out the back.  Pins here are generally helpful.  The sewing method is the same - up one long side, across the short end and string, and down the other long side.  To turn, pull the string.  After the strap is turned, simply clip the string as close to the seam as possible without cutting the actual seam.  Clipping corners - also good.  For this type of project, I will use this method next time.  Use whichever way works best for you.

Cut the strap into 2 pieces of desired length.  My two pieces were about 18" each.  Sounds really long, I know, but remember, they will be folded in half when placed on the fabric, and you also will lose another 1/2" in seam allowances.  Make your straps longer or shorter.  I'm going to try shorter next time.

So on to the pockets!  Line up your pocket strip on the 18 1/2" x 10 1/2" rectangle of Fabric B.  It should be centered vertically and lengthwise.  Another diagram here:

Stitch bottom edge into place to secure.  No need for seam allowance here, just topstitch over your previous sewing.

More measuring and marking here.  We will start from the left side and work our way to the right.  The sides of the bag are 3", and we've allowed room for 1/2" in seam allowances.  From that left edge, measure 1 3/4" and put a pin in the top edge of the pocket strip.  Trust me, it will all work out.  This section makes what I'd call pen/pencil pockets (or lipstick pockets if you are so inclined).  From that pin, measure 6" and put in another pin.  Measure 3" and put in another pin.  Measure 6" and put in another pin.  Finish up by pinning the last corner of the strip to the main body of your soon-to-be bag.  Do the same measuring and marking on the rectangle of Fabric A at the top of the rectangle.  You'll see why in a bit.

Back to the pockets.  I lined up my presser foot with the pin, lowered the foot, then slid the pin out the back.  Use a reinforcing stitch (forward a little, back to the beginning, then forward again) at the top and bottom of your seam to ensure your pockets don't rip out the first time you put something in them.  Repeat this step for all the pockets.  When you are all done, press the top edge of the main piece down 1/4" toward the wrong side (the back).

Next we'll add the straps to the outside of the bag.  This is why we went ahead and measured and marked our sides.  On the 6" sides of the bag, center the straps with the cut edges at the top, and the straps looped. Like this:

Use your imagination for the looping part.  Be sure when you place your strips that the fabric you want to show is on the outside of the loop.  If you want your straps to match the outside of the bag, put the Fabric A side out.  If you want them to contrast, put Fabric B on the outside.  Stitch them into place, and definitely reinforce the stitching.  After the straps are stitched in place, press the top edge of the rectangle, strap edges and all, down a 1/4" toward the wrong side (the back).

Now we are going to turn these pieces into bags.  Fold each rectangle in half with the short edges meeting.  Pin if desired.  Stitch along the edges marked by the arrows.

Do this for both rectangles.  Press side seams open as much as possible.

Line up your quilt rule with each bottom corner so that you have a 2" square marked.

Mark this square (I used a pencil), then cut out.  Do the same thing on the other bottom corner.  Repeat with the other piece.  I add a row of reinforced stitching to the bottom edge, just for security.  Then trim the fabric as close to the stitching as possible, without going THROUGH the stitches.

Find the inside cut corners of the open squares.  Pull the bag open by pinching at these corners.  Line up the cut edges and pin.  Repeat on the other side.  Make sure your center seam faces the same direction.  Repeat for the other piece.

It's ok if it bunches a little bit.  Try to make fabric even.  This is called easing.  Usually, you do this in a sleeve.  Stitch in place, using a 1/4" seam.  Be careful to remove your pins as you sew.

Let's put this baby together, shall we?  Turn the piece with the straps RIGHT SIDE OUT.  Leave the other piece with the WRONG SIDE OUT.  Insert your lining into your bag, matching the side seams, and pushing out bottom corners to shape as you go.  

Home stretch!  Now we are going to put the rick rack between the layers, and pin everything together.  This is the end of the rick rack.

Fold the cut edge under about 1/2", so it matches the wave above it.

And now, WE PIN!  Match this folded edge with the side seam of your bag.  The cut-edge-side should be facing the lining.  Pin in between the layers of the bag.

Continue pinning all the way around, going behind the straps.  This is what is will look like when you get all the way around.

Carefully stitch all the way around the top edge.  I used a decorative cross stitch - not just for looks, but also for reinforcement.  I also used a yellow, matching thread.  You can use a straight stitch, zigzag, or contrasting thread.  Whatever your heart desires.

If you want something more stiff and sturdy, you can add stabilizer.  Or quilt it with some batting.  Make it with a bunch of fat quarters and scraps.  Use leftover jelly roll strips for the handles.  Make it all one color.  Make it without rick rack.  Make it from repurposed men's dress shirts or old blue jeans.

Use your imagination and your stash, and have fun with it!

And PS - if you make one, please leave a comment - I'd love to hear about what you made!